Cone Denim stands as the oldest denim manufacturer based in the United States. But even with 130-plus years of denim experience under its belt, the mill continues to innovate. In recent years, the company has invested $14 million to enhance its sustainability efforts, including creating a pipeline for certified recycled cotton content at its Mexico facility, establishing a zero liquid discharge water facility, and working with third-party companies such as Oritain to verify and certify all claims. A rooftop solar panel initiative for Q4 of this year will generate more clean energy.
To answer demands for more trusted recycled content, Cone has amped up efforts there. Recycled content isn’t new to the company, but Cone has significantly increased its output this year. “We’ve been doing post-industrial recycled content for several years, but up to this point, it’s been smaller blend levels,” said Steve Maggard, president of Cone Denim. Recycled content in blends at Cone’s Mexico facility was “maybe 5, 6, 7 percent” but has since gone up to “well over 20 percent” in products that contain the recycled fibers. Meanwhile, output product in the China facility has been raised to as high as 100 percent recycled fiber content in some styles.
Cone’s other investments include a blend line at its spinning facility, enabling the facility to blend up to four different fibers—whether that be hemp, Tencel, recycled polyester, recycled cotton, organic cotton, etc.—and offer more sustainable varieties to customers.
Nearshoring benefits
Regarding moving production closer to home, Cone cites both process and sustainability advantages, especially for denim. Managing its own certified recycled cotton supply chain lets Cone “control the process” and offer its customers confidence amid more stringent cotton scrutiny. The company recently extended its partnership with Oritain for three years.
In addition, with the consumer constantly changing, there’s a big focus on in-process inventory and how many dollars people have tied up in their inventories, especially now with interest rates as high as they are. Nearshoring allows brands to make garment sizing and wash decisions a lot closer to the market depending on what’s selling.
“One thing about denim is you can really change the appearance of the fabric at the last possible moment in the laundry just by changing the type of wash that you put on it,” Maggard said. “That’s enabling our customers to not have as much money tied up in inventory that might not be selling.”
In addition, giving materials a shorter commute to the consumer benefits cash flows and lessens its environmental impact. “If you’re bringing in recycled cotton from Asia or Pakistan, you’re tying up cash flow for inventory sitting on a boat for six to 10 weeks, plus consuming fossil fuels to put it on a boat and bring it over,” he said. “That kind of kills your sustainable story.”
To learn more about Cone Denim’s operations and facilities, click here. To view the fireside chat, click the image above.
